A while ago I decided to attempt a repair of what was basically the “reference” 30″ 2560×1600 monitor, an LG Flatron W3000H that they built to demonstrate their new, large panel. Back then I got the monitor out of an apartment liquidation and had to replace the inverter board driving the screens’ failed backlight consisting of 9 CCFL lamps. But long before that, I had bought my own 30″ screen which features the same LCD panel, but with other added features, like many more connectors, a card reader with USB hub and a more aggressive anti-glare coating: The DELL UltraSharp 3008WfP. I guess it’s most known for its wide array of supported connectors, which allow the user to hook up anything from a Commodore 64 home computer via composite or S-Video up to a modern graphics card via dual-link DVI-D, HDMI or DisplayPort (as always, Ctrl+click to enlarge images):

There’s a whole lot of connectors
For a while now, the screen had been showing erratic behavior: It’s backlight would sometimes flicker, and it would show a single or two vertical, fuzzy and tansparent yellow lines across the entire panel height at about a 2-3 pixels width for some time before they just disappeared after a few hours of operation. Additionally, it would show a single, vertical, 1 pixel wide opaque purple line about a 150 pixels high on the lower left constantly. My assumptions were that the flickering was caused by the inverter board generating the high-voltage A/C required by the CCFL lamps, and that the panel errors were caused by the LCD driver board. Naturally, it could just be one or more lamps failing and the mainboard having issues, but this seemed like the most likely candidates to me.
So, like for the LG Flatron W3000H, I got myself another LGIT-LM300WQ5 inverter board with DELL part number 6632L-0440A, plus a LM300WQ5-STA1 LCD panel driver or “T-CON” board with DELL part number 6870C-0183D:

Monitor and replacement parts
Now I already knew this device would not be an easy one to disassemble. To reach the insides I basically followed a power board repair article that can be found on [this weblog] and sources a forum thread that is still online on [overclockers.co.uk]. Just like it is said there, the hardest part is to get the front bezel off. And I did it wrong, partially breaking it in the process.
But first comes the stand. You need to remove it to be able to continue. To do so, you’ll require a Torx T15 screw driver. This is the only Torx screws I encountered during disassembly. Carefully put the monitor face down, then remove the screws and rise the lower part at an angle. It’ll easily slide out.

Stand mount on the rear
Now, for the hard part: The front bezel is actually a 2-part assembly with the metallic bezel and a black, plastic insert that the metallic part clips into. What I did at first was to try and get just the metallic front part off, and that was a bad idea. If you do that, you will permanently break the plastic clips holding the metallic bezel and its insert together, which means you’ll need to glue it back on afterwards.
You’ll notice when little black plastic pieces start falling out:

This is bad! When you see those, stop whatever you’re doing, because you’re doing it wrong, just like me!
On the following photo you can see how the 2-part front bezel assembly should not come apart:

DELL UltraSharp 3008WfP front bezel, now partially broken
While it ain’t easy, you should try to make sure to keep the front part and the insert together when removing them from the base frame! There are little notches in the insert you can get into with a small flat-head screwdriver to use leverage to pry it off. You may need to insert multiple of them at once to get it off on all sides without having it snap back into place by itself. The process is much easier once you’ve opened it at least once, but there will be a lot of resistance the first time around, and it will make you curse and flip tables over a lot.
When the insert snaps out of the metal frame it’ll come with clear, audible clicks. This may cost you the better part of an hour to get done and needs a surprising amount of force.
Important: Do not just tear it away too far from the screen! The cable connecting the front bezel buttons allows only about a centimeter of travel, so be especially careful around the spot where those buttons are! You really don’t want to tear that cable off its soldering joints!
Also, it’s best done with the monitor lying on its back, if you’re alone. If you have two people you could have somebody hold it in place in an upright position while you pry off the bezel. To ensure the bezel stays detached for what comes next, use some old manuals or something similar as spacers. Make sure they’re relatively thick at a 100+ pages. You’ll see why soon:

Monitor with front bezel detached
With the bezel in place just like this (remember the cable connecting the front buttons!), flip the monitor upright, and then put it face-down again. Make sure the manuals stay in place to protect the panel from the plastic insert’s clamps! You don’t want to scratch the panel! If you do, you may be able to polish those scratches out with a soft piece of cloth later, but believe me, you don’t wanna have to do that. It’ll take hours to get done, I’ve already been down that road.
The manuals I used to do this are all reasonably thick, and that’s good, because they need to withstand a heavy weight pressing down on them from above after flipping the monitor over. They are what makes sure that the front bezel’s plastic clamps don’t accidentally push into the otherwise almost unprotected panel:

DELL 3008WfP flipped over with the front bezel remaining detached
Ah right, the rear plastic cover is already off here, I forgot to photo-document that part; It can be a bit hard to remove the first time as well. Make sure you don’t put too much strain on the card reader, and maybe use a flat-head screwdriver or some plastic tool to put some leverage on the plastic frame as it gets caught on the display connectors. It takes a bit of force, but should come off after 5-10 minutes on your first try.
First things first: Just tear all the metallic tape off. It serves zero purpose anyway. Okay, maybe not “zero” in case of the card reader… so let’s say “near-zero”. Realistically, there’s no need to keep or replace it though.
Before continuing further, make some post-its or something, so you can document where each screw came from. There a multiple types here, so documenting the location a screw or a set of screws came from can help with making reassembly quicker and easier.
About components: The left shroud that goes almost from top to bottom covers the CCFL inverter board, so the part that drives the backlight. The small one on the right holds the USB 2.0 card reader, which internally consists of the larger card reader board PTB-1767 and the smaller USB 2.0 connector board PTB-1872. The small one on top covers the LCD driver or “T-CON” board. The main shroud covering a large part around the center of the screen holds the power board and the mainboard with all the display connectors.
For a first step, I attempted to remove the inverter board, because it looks the easiest. And again, I managed to mess up. 

DELL 3008WfP inverter board shroud… uhm. Yeah. It obviously shouldn’t look like this!
One of the two screws holding the shroud in place just refused to come out, so I messed up it’s head. Nothing left to do but to just bend it off to the side. Bad. Anyway, for the inverter, you need to remove three cables on the side towards the center: The power cable in the middle, a small monopolar cable on the right and another small ribbon cable on the top left, which connects the inverter with the LCD driver. The right one can be a bit tricky, so you might want to (carefully!) use pliers here.
Next come the power cables on the other side of the board, connecting it to the nine CCFL tubes. Those should come off real easy:

CCFL inverter board removed
The inverter board itself is held into place by six small screws. After having removed those, you can just lift it off and replace it with a new one. If you want to remove more than just that part, re-connect neither the LCD driver connection cable, nor the power cable yet!
Next, remove the single screw fixing the card reader in place. The reader then slides out towards the bottom side of the screen. Also, remove the two screws holding the top LCD driver shroud in place, and tear it off. I say “tear”, because there are some weak glue pads involved here as well. This shouldn’t take too much force:

Card reader detached and LCD driver board top shroud removed
You should also disconnect the ribbon cable connecting the front bezel buttons from the mainboard now. It runs right over the card reader shroud and is also affixed to it. You should also pull that cable off the spot where it’s glued to the main shroud for safety! The glue is weak, so doing this won’t damage it. You can just put it back into place later, and it’ll still stick. You can leave it affixed to the card reader though, that part won’t hurt:

Card reader and front bezel button connector cable
Remove all the screws holding the main shroud in place now. There are six larger ones near the top with two on each side of the the LCD driver board assembly and one on each side on the bottom of the screen. Also, there are two smaller ones close to the LCD driver board as well. Lift it off on the top side of the screen, but be careful! Not more than a few centimeters!

Main shroud lift off a bit (here the top LCD driver board shroud is still installed – doesn’t matter)
When looking at it from this angle, the whole main shroud slides a bit to the left after you lift it off a bit. After having done that, it’ll be loose, but don’t lift it off entirely just yet! First the data and power cables between the mainboard and the LCD driver board need to be detached from the latter:
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Power cable
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iTMDS connector
The power cable on the left can just be carefully pulled out, but do not do that for the iTMDS data cable: It’s got some tiny metal locks on each side. Push both of them inwards and carefully pull it out at the same time. If you cannot manage that, do it on one side first, just pull it out for a bit at an angle, then repeat the process on the other side.
In my own case, there was a big (and bad!) surprise waiting for me here. I did not notice immediately, so I’ll talk about it towards the bottom.
Anyway, carefully turn the main shroud over vertically, so top to bottom. You’ll get to see the mainboard on the left and the smaller power board – which is also prone to failure by the way – on the right. Both run seriously hot when the screen’s powered on:

DELL 3008WfP main shroud flipped over and LCD driver board shroud almost coming off
You can now access the four screws holding the final LCD driver board shroud in place. Because for some reason DELL thought it was smart to put a shroud over a shroud over a board…
However, as you can see on the picture above, that alone is not enough to remove it. You also need to unscrew and remove the top metal rail first. Take a look at the two black screws, one all the way to the left and one on the right: Those two need to go, so you can remove the rail and with it the shroud covering the LCD driver board. When done, it looks like this:

LCD driver board finally uncovered
The driver or “T-CON” board connects to the panel with two thin ribbon cables. Do not just pull them out forcefully though! While you can do that (I sure did, heh…) it’s not how it’s supposed to be done. To avoid unnecessary damage, you should lift the small, black plastic clamps on the connectors, which are what fixes the cables into place and ensures firm contact between the traces and the connector pins:

LCD driver board with open panel connector clamp
Once the clamps are open, the cables can be pulled out and back in with almost zero force. When reconnecting the replacement board, just slide the cables back in under the small plastic noses on each side of the connector and close the clamps again:

LCD driver board with cable inserted and clamp closed
Ah right, before I forget: There is also a small ribbon cable going from this board to the inverter. You can just pull that one out very easily. Remove the board, and replace it with a new one, then reconnect all cables.
With the cables firmly back in place, the T-CON board and the panel (as well as the inverter if installed at this point) are reconnected:

Driver board hooked up to the panel
From here on out, essentially just put everything back in reverse order and make sure not to forget (or damage!) any of the cables and connectors.
Personally, I would omit the outer LCD driver board shroud. It really serves zero purpose other than further impacting what little air convection happens in there. Leaving it off means there will be one left-over screw as well.
Alright, now I did aaaall of that, and what did I end up with?
A screen that was even more broken than before. 
After powering it back up, it went into factory panel diagnostics mode, cycling between solid colors: Black, white, red, green, blue. Apparently, this mode is supposed to help with dead & hot pixel detection. And the panel errors from before were visible as well.
As I couldn’t manage to disable the diagnostics mode with the undocumented key combinations that are supposed to deactivate it, I assumed something must’ve gone wrong with the data connection between the mainboard and the LCD driver board. Or maybe between the latter and the panel itself? The only thing that seemed to be working perfectly was the backlight. Too early to judge it yet though, as the flickering issue sometimes showed up only briefly and only after hours of operation.
Alright, so I had to do a check on all cables, requiring me to tear it apart again! And what fun that is in case of this device! 
Suffice to say, all cables were firmly in place. But I noticed something unbelievable for the dual-link iTMDS cable connecting mainboard and the LCD driver. That cable is even documented by the chip maker Silicon Image, which built the two single-link SiI7172 transmitters and the dual-link receiver chip, which together make up the Silicon Image VastLane SiI7189CMHU iTMDS chipset. Let’s take a look at its block diagram:

Silicon Image VastLane SiI7189CMHU block diagram
In case of this DELL monitor, the top part consisting of the video processor and the SiI7172 chips are on the mainboard. From there, a “Dual Link iTMDS Over Flat Cable” runs to the SiI7181 on the T-CON board, which then drives the panel controller. In this case, the panel controller is a LG Philips LCD TL23210D chip.
Let’s take a closer look at that dual-link iTMDS cable on the mainboard side:
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Dual-link iTMDS cable, left SiI7172 transmitter side
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Dual-link iTMDS cable, right SiI7172 transmitter side
Holy hell… What’s happening here? Probably as a result of both age and excessive heat exposure over the course of tens of thousands of hours of operation, the plastic insulation had become hard and brittle. It’s enough to just run your finger over the cable, and the insulation just falls off like dry old paint! See all the colorful little crumbs on the metal shroud? Yes, that’s all cable insulation material! Let’s take a closer look so you can see the problem more clearly:

Cable insulation coming off like crazy
Naturally, this means there’s a lot of short-circuiting now. And that explains why there is no longer any working data connection between the mainboard and the LCD driver. This might have even blown the LCD driver board’s fuse “F2”, so I’ll have to check whether it’s still conductive.

The disintegrating dual-link iTMDS cable – I couldn’t find any LG or DELL part numbers for it so far
For now, I call this a complete failure. 
Next steps: Try to find a replacement dual-link iTMDS cable (that does not come with a full, expensive mainboard attached to it) or re-insulate the entire cable by myself. Manually. 
This post will be edited in the future once I’ve found a solution to this mess and once I’ll have checked that fuse.
Seriously, this monitor is a b**ch to repair, and I didn’t even have to touch the power board yet… 